When I first started gardening 10 years ago, one of the most confusing things I encountered was figuring out direct seeding versus transplanting. I couldn’t wrap my head around whether these were strict rules or just helpful suggestions. If you’ve had the same questions, you’re in the right place! Today, we’re going to dig into the differences between direct seeding and transplanting, and I’ll share what’s worked best for me over the years.
What is Direct Seeding versus Transplanting?
Direct seeding means you take the seeds straight from the packet and plant them directly into your garden soil, container, or raised bed. Pretty straightforward, right?
Transplanting is a bit different. You start seeds in trays or pots first, either indoors or outdoors. Once the plants have developed strong roots and are sturdy enough, you move them to their permanent spot in your garden.
There are benefits to both methods, and some plants thrive better with one over the other. However, much of this can be subjective depending on the plant and your local climate. Let’s break down which method works best for different types of plants, starting with root crops.
Root Crops: What’s the Best Approach?
Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes, and Garlic
These aren’t your typical seeds. Instead, they grow from clones (yes, clones!). You plant pieces of the actual potato, garlic clove, or sweet potato slip directly into the soil.
These root crops are always directly seeded. They don’t do well with transplanting once they’ve started growing. Sweet potatoes are an exception—they can be started as slips in water but once planted, moving them doesn’t work well.
Carrots, Radishes, and Turnips
These root crops come from seeds and prefer being direct-seeded. Carrots, especially, don’t like being transplanted. While some people have success with transplanting radishes and turnips, I’ve found direct seeding gives the best results.
Onions, Leeks, Shallots
These are the champs of transplanting! Their roots are tough and can handle being moved without a fuss. If you’re growing onions, you can confidently start them in trays and transplant them when ready.
Fruiting Crops: When to Transplant?
Let’s move on to fruiting crops like cucumbers, squashes, melons, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
Cucumbers, Squashes, and Melons
These crops do best when direct-seeded, but they can handle transplanting if done carefully. Melons are the trickiest of the bunch. They have long growing seasons and don’t take well to being moved. If you must transplant, use larger pots so they don’t outgrow their container before getting into the ground.
Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants
These are your garden divas! They love being transplanted and need a long growing season to thrive. Starting them in trays gives you a head start and allows you to pamper them during their early, more fragile stage.
Beans, Peas, and Corn: Direct Seed for Success (But Here’s How to Transplant if You Want)
Beans, peas, and corn all prefer being direct-seeded because they have sensitive root systems that don’t like being disturbed. However, if you really want to transplant them, there are a few tricks to avoid stressing out their roots.
A good method if you do want to transplant is to use peat moss pellets or toilet paper rolls as your starter pots. Both of these options are biodegradable, meaning you can plant the entire pot into the ground without having to remove the plant. This reduces root disturbance, giving these sensitive crops a better chance to thrive.
Peat moss pellets are small, compact disks of peat that expand when watered. The great thing about these is that they provide a tidy, compact space for your seedlings, and when it’s time to plant, you just place the pellet (seedling and all) straight into the garden.
Toilet paper rolls are another excellent option if you prefer a DIY approach. Cut them down to pot size, fold the bottom to create a little base, and fill them with soil. Once your plants are ready, plant the whole roll directly in the soil. The cardboard decomposes over time, allowing the plant’s roots to grow freely without disruption.
Using these methods allows you to transplant beans, peas, and corn without the usual setbacks. However, direct seeding is still the easiest and most reliable way to grow these crops.
Greens and Herbs: Direct Seeding versus Transplanting – Your Choice
When it comes to greens like lettuce, spinach, broccoli, kale, Swiss chard, and herbs like basil, dill, and oregano, you’ve got flexibility. Both direct seeding and transplanting can work well, but there are some key differences depending on your garden setup and preferences.
Greens
Greens are forgiving and versatile, thriving whether you direct seed or transplant them. However, a few things can influence your decision:
Direct seeding is quick and simple. You just sprinkle seeds into your garden bed, and with proper spacing and thinning, you’ll soon have a vibrant patch of greens.
Transplanting gives you more control over spacing and plant placement. If you’ve ever overcrowded your garden like I did in my early gardening days, transplanting can help prevent that. With transplants, you can space your plants evenly, ensuring they have enough room to grow to their full potential.
A major benefit of starting greens as transplants is the ability to extend your growing season. For example, if you’re in a cooler climate, you can start them indoors in trays, giving them a head start before the weather warms up.
Also, keep in mind that when you direct seed greens, you’re more vulnerable to pests like slugs and snails that love tender young plants. Transplanting sturdier seedlings reduces the risk of early pest damage, but direct seeding allows you to scatter more seeds and thin them later—so it’s really a balance of simplicity and plant protection.
Herbs
Herbs can also go either way, but here’s a breakdown:
Annual herbs like basil and dill can be direct-seeded or transplanted. I often start these in trays and then transplant, but direct seeding works just as well, especially for fast-growing herbs like basil.
Perennial herbs like oregano, mint, and lemon balm are a bit different. I recommend starting these from transplants you can buy from your local garden center. They are slower-growing, and buying a live plant is more cost-effective in the long run. For example, I have an oregano plant that’s been thriving for four or five years now from a single $5 plant!
Difficult-to-germinate herbs: Some herbs, like parsley or rosemary, can be tricky to start from seed. If you’re trying to germinate these yourself, consider over-seeding a tray and then thinning the seedlings down to the two strongest plants per cell. That way, you ensure at least one strong seedling survives for transplanting.
Another tip for transplanting herbs: Make sure you plant at least two of each variety in your garden. Herbs can sometimes be fickle, and having a backup ensures you still have a good harvest even if one plant doesn’t make it.
Final Thoughts on Direct Seeding versus Transplanting
Ultimately, the choice between direct seeding and transplanting depends on your specific garden conditions and goals. For example, if you have a short growing season, transplanting gives you a head start. On the other hand, plants with sensitive root systems (like beans and corn) often do better when directly seeded.
The best part of gardening is that you can experiment and find what works best for you. If you’re not sure where to start, consider how much time and space you have and whether the plant thrives on being pampered (like tomatoes) or prefers to be left alone (like beans).
If I missed a vegetable you’re curious about, feel free to leave a comment! I’m always happy to share my experience with different plants. Happy gardening!
