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Growing watermelons has been a seven-year journey for me—full of trial and error, frustration, and, finally, sweet success. After so many failed attempts, I’m thrilled to share that I’ve finally figured it out. And trust me, you’ll want to stick around because I’m saving my number one tip for the end.
Getting Started Growing Watermelons
When it comes to planting watermelons, timing is everything. Whether you’re direct seeding or using trays, it’s crucial to transplant them early on. Once watermelons start growing, they don’t handle transplanting well if they’ve gotten too big.
For me, living in Florida, I usually start my watermelons around late March or early April. Your timing might vary depending on where you live, but the key is to plant after the last frost but before it really starts to heat up. These little guys are sensitive to extreme heat when they’re young, but once they mature, they thrive in Florida’s steamy temperatures.
Another reason I plant in March or April is because it aligns with our dry season. Despite their name, I’ve discovered that watermelons don’t necessarily need a ton of water when they’re young. In fact, starting them in the dry season seems to help fend off blight. As the season progresses and the rains come, the fruit begins to swell and ripen, getting the water it needs to develop that juicy, sweet flavor we all love.
Sunshine and Space: Two Essential Ingredients
Watermelons love full sun—like, really love it. Mine get about 9 to 12 hours of sunlight here in Florida, which is intense, but it’s exactly what they need. The sun helps ripen the fruit and keeps the leaves dry, which in turn keeps disease at bay.
Space is another critical factor. I’m only growing three watermelon plants, but they’re sprawling across four 8×4 ft garden beds. In the past, I tried cramming three plants into one bed, but that led to disease spreading quickly and wiping out my plants. Lesson learned: give your watermelons plenty of room to breathe and grow.
Feeding and Watering: What Works for Me
When it comes to fertilizing, I’ve found that keeping it simple works best. I use Garden-tone in the transplanting hole or in the area where I’m direct seeding. About halfway through the season, I give them a boost with some fish fertilizer to encourage more fruit production.
Watering is a bit of an art with growing watermelons. They need more water as they grow, especially once they start producing fruit. This season, we had an unusually rainy summer, and I was worried that all that rain would lead to disease. Surprisingly, it didn’t! I’m starting to wonder if rainwater might actually be better for them than the well water I usually use, but that’s something I’ll need to explore further.
One tip I’ll share is that if you only have overhead watering and don’t get much rainfall, focus your watering on the main area where the vines started. Let the rainwater take care of the rest. This approach has helped me reduce disease issues significantly.
Managing Disease: How to Prevent
Speaking of disease, I’ve been diligent about spraying my plants with a hydrogen peroxide mix every week. I use 10 tablets of hydrogen peroxide to one gallon of water and spray the foliage. Just make sure to use it quickly or store it in a dark container to prevent it from losing its potency.
Pollination: Why It’s Needed
Pollination is another important step. I’ve planted lots of flowers and native plants to attract pollinators, so I didn’t have to hand-pollinate this year. But if you do need to hand-pollinate, it’s pretty straightforward. Just find a male flower, brush its pollen onto a female flower (the one with a tiny fruit underneath), and you’re good to go.
Pests: What to Watch For
Growing Watermelons, like most garden plants, are not immune to pests. The most common pests I’ve encountered are aphids and pickle worms. Aphids can be controlled with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Pickle worms can be managed organically using a product like BT or Spinosad. Once it’s injected by the worms, it stops them from eating. It doesn’t solve the moths that deposit them on the plant so make sure to spray the plants regularly, especially the fruit. Regularly inspecting your plants for any signs of these pests and taking action early can make a huge difference in your watermelon harvest.
Harvesting: Growing Watermelons
Now, let’s talk about harvesting. This is where I kept messing up year after year. I would always pick my watermelons too early, and they’d be pink in the center, mostly white on the edges, and not nearly as sweet as they should be.
Here’s the trick that finally worked for me: pay attention to the tendril closest to the stem. When that tendril is completely dry—from tip to base—set an alarm on your phone for 5 to 7 days later. That’s when your watermelon will be perfectly ripe. Trust me, this method has been foolproof for me.
My Number One Tip: Variety Matters
After years of experimenting with different watermelon varieties, I can confidently say that finding the right variety is key. Last year, I tested out nine different types, including Crimson Sweet and Sugar Baby. None of them did as well as the Moon and Stars variety.
Moon and Stars watermelons are unique—they have little dots that look like stars and sometimes a crescent or full moon shape on their skin. They’re not only beautiful but also incredibly delicious. Even when I picked them slightly under-ripe, they were still sweet and juicy with a floral scent that fills the air when you cut into them.
This variety has outperformed any watermelon I’ve ever grown in the garden, and I’m now convinced that choosing the right variety for your area is crucial. Moon and Stars work great for me here in Florida, but I encourage you to experiment and find what works best in your garden.
So, there you have it—my journey from watermelon failures to watermelon triumph. I hope these tips help you grow your own bumper crop. Happy gardening!
